I made this quilt five years ago and it has been hanging in The Granary Quilt Shop all this time. It finally came home to me a few days ago – just in time for Valentine’s Day!
I love everything about this quilt. The fabric came from a Moda line by 3 Sisters and I love the soft yellows, pinks and greens. I also love the quilting, even if I do say so myself!
I used wool batting which really makes the quilting pop. The center heart motif came from Sue Nickel’s book, Machine Quilting: A Primer Of Techniques This is a great book if you want to learn free motion quilting.
The corner triangle hearts came from a stencil from my growing collection. I pick up new stencils whenever and wherever I can – it’s like candy, you know?
I even love the back of this quilt. I forgot that I had made this cute heart label – it made me so happy when I turned the quilt over and saw it! I really couldn’t remember when I had first made this, but now I know. Hmmm, maybe I should be more diligent about labeling everything – what a concept!
The pattern for the hearts in this sweet wall hanging came from It’s “El”ementary: Quilting Tips and Techniques (Quilt in a Day), by Eleanor Burns. This is a great book for beginning and intermediate quilters because she gives such detailed instructions and diagrams. The top of the hearts in this quilt are machine appliqued. The base of the heart is a simple log cabin variation block. The finished size of the quilt top is 23 1/2″ square. It’s a small enough project that you might be able to get one finished in time for Valentine’s Day! Yeah, in your spare time:)
Since I’m so new at blogging, I’m still trying to work out the bugs. If you have subscribed to my blog via email or an RSS feed like Google Reader, my recent posts aren’t formatting like they should be. I’m still trying to figure out why, but in the meantime, if you go straight to my website, www.thecraftyquilter.com, you will get the correct formatting. Thanks for your patience!
Welcome to my updated and expanded tutorial on how to make perfect quarter square triangle units. Since I first published it in 2012, this has been my most popular tutorial ever – thank you Pinterest! Now it’s 2018 and I thought it was time to give it a fresh look with better images and more detailed instructions. Plus, I’ve included a cutting chart that you can download and print out. Towards the end, you’ll find instructions on how to make the popular Ohio Star block which includes four quarter square triangle units. Enjoy!
Original quarter square triangle photo used for the Ohio Star:
Quarter Square Triangle Math
You start with four squares to make four quarter-square triangle (QST) units. First, let’s talk numbers (I know, it’s an evil necessity). In order to know the size of the squares to start with, you need to know the finished size of the unit, which is 3″ in this case (that’s because I want a 9″ finished size block). Add 1 1/4″ to that number and you have the size needed to cut your squares. So, 3″ + 1 1/4″ will give us 4 1/4″ squares.
Now, if I were a perfect quilter, I would use that number. However, things often get a little wonky on me, so I like to oversize my QST’s so that I can trim them down into the perfect size. So, I add 1 1/2″ to the finished size desired. For this unit, I will need (4) 4 1/2″ squares to start with.
First, draw a diagonal line on the two like-colored squares from corner to corner. Use a pencil or Frixion Pen (my favorite) and a ruler to draw your line. You’ll be stitching 1/4″ on each side of the line. If you don’t have a 1/4″ foot, you might want to draw the actual stitching lines. A special ruler called the Quilter’s Rule Quick Quarter II makes this step easy. Some people find it easier (and more precise) to stitch on a drawn line instead of 1/4″ away from a line. The following picture shows both ways:
With right sides together, layer each red square with another square and stitch 1/4″ on either side of the center drawn line (or exactly on the drawn lines if you chose that method). Cut apart between stitching lines and press towards the red square. You should now have four half-square triangles (HST’s).
Next, layer two of the HST’s together so that the center seams nest together and the red colors are opposite each other.
Again, you’re going to draw a diagonal line and stitch as you did in the previous step.
UPDATED TIP: It’s important to draw the line so that it’s perpendicular to the seam. Instead of only lining up the ruler with the corners, make sure to also place a line of your ruler on the seam when you mark your line. If the corners don’t line up exactly, that’s o.k.
I think it’s important to pin the seams that are nesting and to stitch with the top seam allowance facing up (towards the machine needle):
TIP: Why does it matter if the top seam allowance is facing the needle? Because if I were to start stitching at the top and the seam allowance was facing away from my needle, chances are the presser foot would push the top seam allowance down and away from the bottom seam. But because I have my seam allowance on top facing the needle, the presser foot still pushes the top seam allowance, but it pushes into the bottom seam allowance creating a more snug intersection. That’s a lot of information, but if you’re new to quilting it’s nice to know these little tricks.
Now you’re going to cut these apart between your stitching lines and, voila, you have your QST’s!
Now remember we still need to trim these units down to 3 1/2″ square. There are several ways of doing that. For the first two methods, you will need to press your seam before trimming. You can press to one side or twirl your seam allowances. I like to “twirl” my seam allowance because it makes the unit flatter and my ruler doesn’t rock when I’m cutting.
To do this, you’ll press half of the seam allowance up and the other half down. The center (where the 4 seams intersect) should pop open in the seam allowance, creating a mini 4-patch in the center of the wrong side.
Trim method 1
You will need a square ruler that is 3 1/2″ or larger. Place it so that the diagonal line of the ruler is along one of the diagonal seams of your QST. You need to make sure that you’re trimming the same amount equally from all four sides so that your center seam stays in the center. So, put the 1 3/4″ intersection of the ruler (that’s half of 3 1/2″) at the center seam and trim along the top and right hand side (if you’re right handed).
Now rotate the QST and line up the 3 1/2″ lines of the ruler with the previously cut edges. Trim the remaining two sides. You should now have a perfect 3 1/2″ QST.
Updated: Trim method 2
For the second method of trimming, I love the Tucker Trimmer 1 by Studio 180 Design. This ruler does a fantastic job of trimming down pieced squares accurately and easily. It can be used on HST’s and QST’s. There are two diagonal markings to line up with the seams on the QST which takes the guess work out of the ruler placement.
Trim method 3
This method uses a ruler that I’ve had for a long time – Quilt In A Day’s Triangle Square-up Ruler. The advantage of this ruler is you trim two sides at the same time, and it has two diagonal markings for easy placement.
Before pressing your seam, you will place the ruler so that the 3 1/2″ red dashed line is along the bottom stitching line and the perpendicular line is placed along the center seam. Now you just have to trim the two sides and then press!
Ohio Star Quilt Block
If you want to make a 9″ (finished size) Ohio Star Block, you will need (4) 3 1/2″ squares and (1) 4 1/2″ square of background fabric, (1) 3 1/2″ center square, (2) 4 1/2″ squares of medium fabric, and (1) 4 1/2″ square of dark fabric. (You can also interchange the medium and dark fabrics.) I’m using fabric from the Farmhouse collection by Fig Tree for Moda.
First, make the 4 quarter-square triangle units using the instructions above. Then arrange your squares as shown below and sew them into rows. Press seams toward the plain squares.
Now join the rows together. When pinning the rows together, make sure to use a setting pin at the intersections so that your diagonal seams will match and there will be a visual straight line as shown below.
Here’s how a setting pin works: Nest your seams together. Starting on the top seam allowance, there should be an “x” where the stitching lines are. Place your setting pin straight down through the “x” and then straight down into the bottom seam allowance’s “x”. Leave that pin straight up and down (perpendicular) to the seam. You can peak to see if the diagonal seams match up by pinching the intersection with your fingers and opening it up. Then pin on either side of your setting pin, close to the seam allowance. Remove the setting pin and sew your seam, making sure your stitching goes through the middle of the “x”.
2018 update: Using washable glue instead of pins has become very popular for matching seams. I recently purchased Seam Align Glue by Acorn Precision Piecing from The Quilt Show and I used it for this quilt block. I love it! It was easy to apply and it didn’t make the fabric stiff. My seams came out perfectly. Elmer’s Washable School glue would work also.
Your block should measure 9 1/2″ square.
I love making quarter square triangles and they’re so versatile! Maybe I’ll make enough Ohio Stars for a table runner (in my spare time!) or I might just quilt it as is and practice my free motion quilting (more likely). Thanks so much for stopping by!
I am co-teaching a Block-of-the-Month (BOM) program at The Granary with Paula Ivers, the shop owner. We are using the pattern “Paris in the Fall”, by This & That. It’s a wonderful way to hone your piecing skills a little at a time and make a beautiful quilt in the process! Here’s another version of Block 1:
It’s February (where did January go?) and I thought it would be a good time to share a fun tutorial on how to make a heart sachet. I originally got this idea from the Moda Bake Shop. I used Moda layer cakes for mine and made it a little bit smaller than the original version. So let’s get started:
Step 1: You will need 6 layer cakes (10 ” squares) of coordinating fabric. This will be enough to make 4 heart sachets. You’ll also need some polyester stuffing and lavender oil.
Take two of the layer cakes and from each cut (1) 2″ wide strip, (1) 8″ square and (1) 2″ x 8″ rectangle as shown below.
Step 2: From the remaining layer cakes, cut (1) 2″ x 10″ strip from each. Subcut the remaining piece (which should now be a 8″ x 10″ rectangle) into (4) 2″ x 8″ rectangles. Arrange those 2″ x 8″ rectangles (including the ones from previous step) into sets of five as shown and sew together with 1/4″ seam. Press seams to one side. You should have a total of 4 strip sets that measure 8″ x 8″ square.
Step 3: Cut the 8″ square strip sets on the diagonal as shown. Do the same thing with the two 8″ plain squares from step 1.
Step 4: With right sides together, sew a pieced triangle to a plain triangle, leaving a 2″ gap along the center of the long side. Clip corners bluntly and turn right side out.
Step 5: Stuff the triangle with polyester stuffing. If you want to make it smell pretty, add a few drops of lavender oil to the stuffing first. You don’t need the stuffing to reach too far into the two points of the triangle since this will get sewn together eventually to form the top of the heart.
Step 6: Sew the opening closed. I do this by machine (lazy me). Next, you want to take the two long triangle points and overlap them to form the handle for your heart. Stitch across the overlap to secure – again I did this by machine. It should begin to look like a heart shape by now (hurray!)
Step 7: Make the bow for the heart by taking (2) 2″ x 10″ rectangles and draw a 45 ° diagonal line on each end as show in picture. Sew 1/4″ all the way around, leaving a 2″ opening along one long side. Trim points bluntly and turn right side out. Press. Stitch opening closed.
Step 8: Assembly your cute heart sachets! Tie the bow around the heart handle and adjust until it looks just right.
Don’t you love it? Hearty goodness that smells nice too!